Remember the scene from “Harry Met Sally” in Katz Deli? Jeff is having a similar moment, totally spellbound with the coconut husk. Then they’re tossed in a searing wok with garlic, salt, pepper and are joined by more discs of crunchy lotus root. It doesn’t stop there though as the bones were deep fried until they become crispy and completely edible. When brought to the table, it’s expertly dismantled for our perverse theatrical pleasure – a genuinely a brilliant way to end the main courses. The were notes of glossy chilli oil and lemongrass to bring things together.ĭover sole was grilled whole with a beurre noisette with a aromatic poke five spice. It had the lingering coolness of mint, fresh and fried. ‘Dai’ seared beef was the kind treated to a high heat so the edges take on the maillard reaction, yet the centre is still a ruby red. Gong Bao chicken with peanuts has a mouth-pucker of black vinegar, a whack of intensified dried chilli flavour, its dark-sweet flavours are so approachable. Kai-lan is cooked with respect and are topped with deeply umami dried fish and roasted pine nuts. This one is more refined, slices of pork with the right amount of fat against protein interplayed against each other, neatly stacked and crested with discs crispy lotus root in a ripe reduction of spice infused soy. I first had a version of this dish at the now not so good Mayflower – it became part of my five a day. Just fill and inhale.īetter still was the Dong Po slow braised Blyth burgh pork belly. The bao with its crochet edges had nice crunchy caramelisation on either side. Shaanxi pulled lamb burger with xianjiang pomegranate salad was a case of the kitchen getting the diners involved in the labour of building their own bao tacos. Its a celebration of slinky pieces of pork jerky, seared foie and sweet prawns dressed as a gold fish. The “gold fish” dumpling is another fine example. They crest it with a piece of crackling that comes with a shattering crunch contrasting nicely with the soft dumpling. Siu-mai is another classic and forms the last piece of the trio of dim sum from the “Taste of China menu”. They top it with marinated fish roe too for the added luxury. Shanghai xiao long bao with it’s silken skin is filled with luscious soup and decent minced pork. However, I trusted in the Chef’s vision as he totally amps this version by using vinegar foam and chilli jam, making the humble dumpling more thrilling. I can’t agree as I can eat them by the dozen and not get bored. I read somewhere that Andrew felt that the classic har-gau was quite “one dimensional” especially if more than three were eaten. Nasal trembling wasabi was added for good measure. The egg waffles, a popular street food of Hong Kong with it’s machined spheres, were by design meant to be filled and enjoyed. Zhou Dynasty scallop salad was a hot oil slickened tartare with deftly cut cucumber flesh, spring onions and sesame seeds. It’s made for dredging your dumplings and everything else in. On the topic of detail, the chilli oil, one made from tofu and the other from shellfish had stellar amounts of umami. Our view from where the four of us sat – the devil is in the detail as they say. Lychee martini’s were ordered which contained a nasal twitching amount of vodka. We arrived early before our table was set, so we were ushered through some heavy draped curtains into their “Forbidden City Bar” which has an unmistakable Cantonese accent. We reap the benefits of that when he gets to work. Andrew took it over in 2013 and reimagined the menu to produce some of the most evocative dim sum and a 10-course Taste of China menu, inspired by his travels through the culinary underbelly of the Motherland. In case you’re curious, Andrew isn’t the A in A.Wong, it’s commemorative to his folks Albert and Annie who founded the restaurant. Chef Andrew Wong in my opinion successfully blazes a territory for Cantonese cuisine that gets greedy folk like me noticing the noise – even Michelin heard and awarded the restaurant a star in 2017 which he’s been a part of since 1985. But A.Wong is both a refreshing and educational change in a different direction. If you’re looking for prawn toast look away – the same goes for sweet & sour chicken balls and sweetcorn soup, now there’s nothing wrong with that if it’s your jam. What I’ve noticed about Cantonese food in London is a transcending trajectory away from the Essex fake-tan shade gone wrong representation of what it used to be.
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